When I decided to stay in Fujisawa/Kamakura area I never really made any plans except to visit Enoshima Island. When I look back on my 2025 trip to Japan, Enoshima is the place that comes first to my mind every time. There is a unique energy about an ocean town, especially one as lively and bustling as this. Yet the crowd doesn't take away from the beauty and history that you feel while wandering around. The island is designed in such a way that truly makes it feel like an adventure as you explore every area, each as breathtaking as the last. I hope whoever is reading this can enjoy some of the adventure and some of the serenity that I did through these
photos. At least until you get to go someday!
I stayed in Fujisawa (which is a smaller town south of the greater Tokyo area) from Nov 20-23, with the intention of seeing what the cities were like outside of Tokyo. I had also intended to see more along the coast, and decided on Fujisawa for the price and location. Fujisawa itself deserves a whole post, and I really look back fondly on that leg of my trip.
I left for Enoshima on the morning of the 22nd, the air was cool and crisp, and the sky was a pearly blue. I took the train to Enoshima station to ride the Enoden Line. It’s a much smaller train than those in the city (about 5 cars), that takes a long slow route through the small coastal towns and loops south across the shoreline. The train itself is very crowded because of how popular it is for its scenic views, but it is still worth the experience. I encourage you to look up pictures since I didn't get any of my own. It really is picturesque!
The train station is about a 15 minute walk from the island entrance. The entrance is a long stretch of road that connects the island to the mainland, with incredible views of Mt Fuji on the right. The shops lining the streets from the station to the island all had a laid back ocean town feel.
Once you step on to the island there are a multitude of restaurants and shops permeating delicious smells throughout the area. The main path to follow through the island cuts straight ahead and is lined with little gift shops and food stalls as you start walking uphill.
There is a shrine just past the treeline in the picture below and blends history and architecture with nature in a way that is hard to comprehend coming from the states. I think a lot of the magic of Japan comes from this blend that they are so good at.
Something I found incredible while walking along the main path was just how variable the elevation was. Even more incredible was that shops and restaurants line the main path throughout much of the walk, no matter how steep. It made for some really pretty visuals.
Many people own and live in the shops they run. I met Frankie who was tending the shop with his dad selling snacks and souvenirs. Their home was converted on the bottom floor to be a shop during open hours. The place feels lived in and everything has meaning and history to that family which I think is beautiful, and goes for many of the shops you visit. The feeling of community and family history runs deep and is very tangible.
After a long walk through the middle of the island you make it through to the southernmost side and the path takes you down to the sea level. After stepping down an extremely long and steep staircase, the path opens up with the ocean and fuji on the right side, with the island towering over you to the left (putting in perspective how much elevation you have scaled).
The ocean breeze was soft that day, and the air was crisp. Locals and tourists alike were all soaking in as much of those precious moments as they could.
The main attraction of the Island are some of the natural caves that are accessible at the south edge. Walking through the paths between the caves were unique as well with some preservedstone arch ways that look out across the ocean, and bridges across the water with equally
breathtaking views.
The caves themselves are extremely serene. There is a sacred feeling to them and the cold still air reinforces that sensation. One of the main caves is more preserved and dark. They hand out little candles to light your way as you venture deeper. Towards the back there was an ancient shrine that was really cool to see. The other main cave was more walkable and comfortable with higher ceilings and beautiful lights strung up all throughout the cave. (The pictures appear much
brighter than the areas were in person)
In between walking to the second cave I came out to this scene of people fishing with Mt Fuji in the background and really just thought it was beautiful. Whether this was another day for those people, or it was an exciting fishing trip with a friend, or time spent with a family member, we will never know; but the contrast of that moment with the mountain that has stood over the land watching as generations come and go was impactful.
I ended up stopping to try some fresh seafood at this stand, where a cute old lady was working outside of her restaurant. Her daughter was inside taking orders and serving lunch while she worked on the stall outside serving fresh snacks. I figured I needed to try something fresh from the sea since I was here, and I ordered an octopus leg. It was alright haha.
The last thing I went to check out was the garden and sea candle. The gardens were not in peak season but there were some really pretty ginkgo leaves turning a bright yellow while I was there. The park was also preparing for a Christmas lights festival which seemed like it would've been very pretty to see at night. The sea candle stand in the middle of the park up above the island as a perfect lookout 360 degrees. The needle itself is really pretty and I think fits really well with the surrounding scenery.
At the very top of the candle you get a stunning view of the city to the north and the entrance from the station, the coastline, and even back towards the mountains. This first image is looking
more to the north where you can see the bridge to cross over to the island.
The second image is looking more to the west towards mount fuji and kinda in the direction of Fujisawa where I was staying.
I ended my Enoshima adventure by relaxing under the cradle in the rest area and enjoying the local music with the ocean views. To be able to slow down for a moment during a trip that feels rushed to see as much as possible was really healing. When I need to slow down in every day life I can think back to those moments and feel that peace again.